Finishing a wood floor properly means several products working together, not just a single tin of varnish. We stock everything needed from bare, sanded wood through to a finished, protected surface: sanding abrasives to prepare the floor, stains and dyes to adjust the colour, primers to prepare it for the topcoat, and lacquers or hardwax oils to seal it, plus fillers for repairing gaps and cleaners and polishers to keep the finished floor looking right afterwards. Everything here comes from established manufacturers, Bona, Junckers, Loba, Osmo, Morrells and others, and orders placed before 2pm go out for next working day delivery. Call 020 8830 9785 if you're not sure where to start or want help planning out a full finishing job.
The order a finishing job typically follows
Most wood floor finishing jobs move through the same broad sequence, though not every floor needs every stage.
| Stage |
What it covers |
When it's needed |
| Sanding |
Abrasives in a coarse-to-fine grit sequence |
New or heavily worn floors, before any colour or finish goes on |
| Filling |
Resin fillers for gaps, wax sticks for spot repairs |
Where boards have gapped, or the surface has damage |
| Staining |
Dyes and stains to change or deepen colour |
Optional, only if you're altering the wood's natural tone |
| Priming |
Primers to prepare bare wood for the topcoat |
Before most lacquer systems, and for some hardwax oils |
| Finishing |
Lacquer or hardwax oil as the final protective layer |
Every floor, this is what actually protects the wood |
| Maintaining |
Cleaners, polishers and finish protectors |
Ongoing, once the floor's finished and in use |
A straightforward recoat on a floor that's already in good condition might only need the finishing and maintaining stages. A full restoration starting from bare boards runs through the whole sequence.
Choosing between a lacquer finish and a hardwax oil finish
This is usually the biggest decision on a finishing job, and it shapes several of the other product choices. Lacquer forms a protective film on the surface, giving a durable, largely maintenance-free finish that comes in sheens from ultra matt to gloss. Hardwax oil penetrates into the wood itself rather than sitting on top, giving a more natural look and feel but needing more regular upkeep to stay protected. Neither is objectively better, it depends on the look you want and how much maintenance you're prepared to keep up with. Our floor lacquers and hardwax and oil ranges cover both in detail.
FAQ
Do I need to buy a primer if I'm using hardwax oil? Not always, some hardwax oil systems go directly onto bare, sanded wood. It depends on the specific product and the wood species, so it's worth checking the manufacturer's guidance or calling us before skipping this step.
Can I mix products from different brands across the same job? It's generally safer to stay within one manufacturer's system, particularly for primer and topcoat combinations, since compatibility between brands isn't always guaranteed and mismatched systems can affect adhesion or the final look.
What's the minimum I need to buy for a simple recoat? A straightforward recoat on a floor that's structurally sound usually just needs a light abrasive pass, the lacquer or oil itself, and the right cleaning products to maintain it afterwards, without needing fillers, stains or primer.
How do I know if my floor needs full sanding or just a light refresh? If the existing finish is worn through to bare wood in places, or there's visible damage, it likely needs a full sanding. If the finish is intact but dull or lightly scuffed, a light abrasive pass and a fresh coat is often enough.
