Getting a sanding job right starts with the right abrasive, in the right grit, for the machine you're using. We stock discs, belts and edging abrasives, primarily from Starcke, in diameters and hole patterns matched to the major sanding machines, Bona, Festool and Lagler Trio among them, plus a full grit range from 16 for aggressive stock removal through to 800 for fine finishing work. Getting the grit progression right matters as much as the abrasive quality itself: skip too many steps and swirl marks from a coarse grit can show through the finish. Call 020 8830 9785 if you need help matching abrasives to your machine or working out a grit sequence for a job.
Working through a grit sequence
Floor sanding isn't a single pass at one grit, it's a progression, usually starting coarse to remove the old finish and level the floor, then moving through successively finer grits to remove the scratch pattern the previous grit left behind. Skipping too far between grits leaves visible marks that the final finish will only make more obvious, not hide.
| Grit range |
Stage |
Purpose |
| 16–24 |
Coarse |
Removing old finish, levelling boards |
| 36–60 |
Medium |
Removing coarse-grit scratches |
| 80–120 |
Fine |
Final sanding before staining or sealing |
| 150+ |
Extra fine |
Buffing between coats, specialist finishing |
A typical domestic refinish might run 24, 40, then 80 grit, but the right sequence depends on the floor's condition. A lightly worn floor that just needs a light recoat needs far less aggressive treatment than one with deep scratches, old adhesive residue, or an uneven surface to level out.
Abrasive type and machine compatibility
Silicon carbide abrasives are common for edging work and general floor sanding, offering good cut quality at a reasonable cost. Zirconia abrasives, often used for belts, are more durable and hold up better under the heavier pressure of a drum or belt sander, which is why they're the usual choice for coarse-grit stock removal. Aluminium oxide and ceramic abrasives sit at different points on the durability and cost spectrum, with ceramic typically the longest-lasting and most expensive option for heavy commercial use.
Compatibility matters just as much as abrasive type. Discs come in specific diameters and hole patterns designed for particular machines, a disc built for a Festool sander's dust extraction holes won't necessarily suit a Bona edger, so it's worth checking your machine's specification before ordering rather than assuming a given diameter will fit.
FAQ
How do I know what grit to start sanding at? It depends on the floor's current condition. A floor with a thick old finish or significant damage usually needs to start coarse, around 16 to 24 grit, while a floor that just needs refreshing might start as fine as 40 or 60 grit. If you're unsure, starting too fine and having to drop back a grit wastes far less material than starting too coarse and leaving scratches you then have to sand out.
What's the difference between a disc and a belt abrasive? Discs are generally used on random orbital or edging sanders for detail work around the room's perimeter, while belts run on drum sanders for the main body of the floor. Most jobs need both.
Can I reuse sanding discs between jobs? Once a disc's cutting ability has worn down, usually visible as reduced cutting speed or a smoother, less aggressive feel, it's more efficient to replace it than push on with a dulled abrasive, which can generate excess heat and a poorer finish.
Why does my floor still show scratches after the final sanding pass? This is usually a sign a grit step was skipped, or the previous grit's scratches weren't fully removed before moving on. Working through the full sequence without skipping steps, and checking the surface under raking light between passes, catches this before the finish goes on.
